New York’s Iconic Pizza and Bagels Face a Recipe Revolution
New York’s legendary pizza slices and hand-rolled bagels could soon taste different. State lawmakers have passed legislation that would ban potassium bromate, a common flour additive linked to cancer, and the bill now awaits Governor Kathy Hochul’s signature. If signed, the measure would force thousands of pizzerias and bagel shops across the state to reformulate recipes that have defined New York’s culinary identity for nearly a century.
What Is Potassium Bromate?
Potassium bromate is an oxidizing agent added to flour to strengthen dough, improve elasticity, and reduce the time needed for fermentation. It helps create the chewy, crisp texture that New York-style pizza and bagels are famous for. According to AP News, the most common brand is General Mills’ “All Trumps” flour, a staple ingredient since the city’s first grab-and-go pizza parlors opened nearly a century ago.
However, studies dating back to the 1980s have shown that potassium bromate can cause cancer in laboratory animals. It has also been linked to kidney damage, thyroid issues, and other health problems. The additive is already banned across the European Union, United Kingdom, Canada, China, India, Brazil, and much of the rest of the world. California will implement its own ban in 2027.
The Legislation and Its Impact
Senate Bill S1239A, also known as the Food Safety and Chemical Disclosure Act, passed both the New York State Assembly and Senate on April 21. As ABC7 NY reported, the bill targets potassium bromate and other food additives. A spokesperson for Governor Hochul said she will review the legislation, but has not yet indicated whether she will sign it.
If enacted, businesses would receive a one-year grace period to continue using the additive, plus additional time to use up unexpired bags of flour. This transition period aims to give bakeries and pizzerias time to adapt their recipes and sourcing.
A Divided Industry
The proposed ban has sparked fierce debate among New York’s food community. Pizza historian Scott Wiener, who leads tours of notable slice shops, described the potential change as “an earth-shaking event for New York pizza,” telling AP News that the additive “is part of the identity of the slice.” He estimates that approximately 80% of pizza and bagel shops rely on bromated flour.
Jesse Spellman, the second-generation owner of Utopia Bagels, expressed concern about the transition. “You could achieve that same bagel texture, but it’s a lot more work and it’s going to be a lot more expensive,” he told ABC7 NY. Spellman has already begun experimenting with yeast concentrations and rise time to adapt his family’s recipe.
But not everyone is opposed to the change. Michael Wesslock, owner of The Pizza Box in Greenwich Village, has never used bromated flour. “You don’t need it in flour,” he said. “It’s sort of a crutch that people rely on to make dough a little better.” His shop relies on longer fermentation to develop flavor naturally.
Health Experts Weigh In
Erik Millstone, a professor of science policy at the University of Sussex who studies the health impact of chemicals in food, offered a stark assessment. “From a consumer’s point of view, there’s nothing good about potassium bromate,” he told The Independent. “Most well-informed people would prioritize a long healthy life over a slightly softer and more soluble bun.”
Could the Ban Improve Quality?
Some experts argue that the ban could ultimately make New York’s pizza and bagels better. Wiener believes that without the chemical shortcut, bakers will need to use longer fermentation times, which develop more complex flavors. “Without such a fast turnaround for dough production, you’re going to get more well-fermented doughs, which is going to lead to lighter pizzas that are easier to eat and leave you with less of a stomachache,” he said. “It will require more of a process. But everything will be built back better.”
Salvatore Lo Duca, owner of Lo Duca Pizza in Brooklyn, has already made the switch. After discovering that bromated flour contained a suspected carcinogen, he began experimenting with alternatives. “When we started playing around with a different flour, I actually took a liking to it,” he told AP News. “It’s a little more expensive, but the quality is there.”
What’s Next
All eyes are now on Governor Hochul’s desk. Her decision will determine whether New York joins a growing list of jurisdictions — including California, the EU, and Canada — in banning the additive. If signed, the law would set a significant precedent, potentially accelerating similar legislation in other states and raising pressure for federal action on food additives.
For New Yorkers, the question is whether their beloved pizza and bagels can retain their distinctive character without potassium bromate. Many experts say yes — it will just take more time, effort, and perhaps a slightly higher price tag.