Sephora Opens First Belgian Store in Brussels Amid Criticism

Cosmetics giant Sephora opened its first physical store in Belgium on Thursday at the Docks Bruxsel shopping center in Brussels, drawing long queues of eager customers before the doors even opened. The launch marks a significant milestone for the French beauty retailer, but it arrives shadowed by an ongoing Italian antitrust investigation and growing concerns about the company’s marketing practices targeting children and adolescents.

According to VRT NWS, customers — particularly young girls and women — lined up early in the morning to be among the first to explore the new store, which carries over 90 beauty brands. The opening fulfills a long-awaited expansion into Belgium, one of the few Western European markets where the LVMH-owned chain had no physical presence.

A Strategic Expansion

Sephora, founded in France in 1973 and acquired by luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1997, operates in 35 countries with 50,000 employees. The company’s entry into Belgium is part of an aggressive expansion plan. A second Brussels store is scheduled to open in July at the City 2 shopping center, and Sephora aims to have four stores in Belgium by the end of 2026. The company’s long-term ambition includes 10 stores in the Brussels region before expanding into Flanders.

Cathérine Spindler, General Director of Sephora Europe, described Belgium as “a mature and sophisticated market for luxury beauty products with well-informed and engaged consumers.” Speaking to VRT NWS, she noted that the company had observed growing interest in the brand from Belgian consumers for several years.

The Dermorexia Controversy

However, the celebratory opening has been tempered by significant controversy. In Italy, the Competition Authority (AGCM) launched two formal investigations on March 27, 2026, into Sephora Italia, Benefit Cosmetics, and LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia over alleged unfair commercial practices.

The Italian Competition Authority stated that the companies “may have failed to make clear that the cosmetics sold by Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics are not intended for children and adolescents, while appearing instead to have encouraged their purchase through covert marketing strategies involving young micro-influencers.” The investigation centers on the phenomenon known as “cosmeticorexia” or “dermorexia” — an obsessive focus on skincare among increasingly younger children.

Dermatologists have raised alarms about the trend. Ingrid Van Riet, a dermatologist who spoke to VRT NWS in March, warned that girls as young as eight are using anti-wrinkle creams and serums intended for adult skin. “The problem is that their skin is not yet suitable for such strong products, which are actually only intended for adults,” she said. Van Riet also criticized social media influencers for promoting unrealistic beauty standards, noting that filters create the illusion of “glass skin” that does not exist in reality.

Sephora’s Defense

In response to the criticism, Spindler emphasized that all products sold in Sephora stores comply with strict European safety standards. She told VRT NWS that staff are trained to “properly guide young customers toward products that are not harmful for their age.”

The company’s expansion plans, however, suggest confidence in the Belgian market despite the controversy. Newsmonkey reported in April that Sephora intends to establish a strong foothold in Brussels before moving into the Flemish region, signaling high expectations for the brand’s performance in Belgium.

Implications for the Belgian Market

Sephora’s arrival introduces a powerful new competitor to Belgium’s beauty retail landscape. The chain’s strong brand recognition among younger consumers, built through a vast network of social media influencers, could put pressure on local retailers. At the same time, the ongoing Italian investigation raises questions about whether Belgian consumer protection authorities might launch their own scrutiny of Sephora’s marketing practices.

The Italian probe could result in fines or mandated changes to Sephora’s marketing strategy, potentially setting a precedent for other European regulators. The case highlights the growing tension between aggressive social media marketing targeting youth and consumer protection concerns in an era where beauty standards increasingly affect children’s mental and physical health.

What’s Next

As Sephora prepares to open its second Brussels location next month, the company faces the challenge of balancing its ambitious growth targets with the ethical concerns surrounding its marketing to young consumers. The outcome of the Italian investigation will be closely watched by regulators across Europe, including in Belgium, and could shape how beauty retailers approach youth marketing in the future.

For now, the long queues at Docks Bruxsel demonstrate that consumer enthusiasm for the brand remains high — but the controversy is unlikely to fade as quickly as the opening-day crowds.